Robatayaki Experience in Nakano – Grilled Fish Lunch at Rikugien (Rikyu Steam) Tokyo

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I had been wanting to visit this place for a long time.

But there was always one problem—the lunch hours are surprisingly short. Every time I tried to go, I somehow missed the timing.

This time, though… I finally made it.

The restaurant is called “Rikugien” (often read as Rikyu Steam), located in Nakano.

It’s a traditional-style restaurant specializing in robatayaki, or what some might call “primitive-style grilling” in Japan.

The moment you step inside, you immediately understand why this place is famous.

There are two floors, and the first floor is dominated by a massive counter surrounding an open fire.

And when I say massive, I mean it.

If you’ve seen similar setups in places like Shinjuku or Yotsuya, you might expect something cozy—but this one is on another level. The scale alone makes it worth visiting.

It feels almost theatrical.

You sit around the fire, watching the chefs grill fish right in front of you, using long paddles to serve dishes across the counter. It’s a very “Japanese experience” that’s hard to replicate elsewhere.

Another interesting system: you pay first at the entrance and receive a small ticket (a wooden tag-like system). It’s simple, efficient, and very common in traditional Japanese eateries.

For lunch, the set meal includes pickles (usually cabbage), rice, and miso soup—and all of them are refillable.

Be careful with the rice, though.

If you ask for a large portion, it’s not just “a little more.” It’s a serious upgrade.

This is the kind of place where portion size actually matters.

Now, let’s talk about the main dish.

ormal salmon

The pickles are served in a buffet style with unlimited refills! You go and get them yourself.

Small bowl of grated yam

Grated Nameko Mushrooms

On this day, I had grilled “Okimedai” (deep-sea bream).

Perfectly grilled over charcoal.

The outside was crispy, slightly charred, while the inside remained juicy and soft. The natural flavor of the fish really stood out—no need for heavy seasoning.

This is where Japanese grilling techniques really shine.

Simple, but precise.

Nakano itself is an interesting area.

Compared to Shinjuku, it feels more local. Instead of business crowds rushing through lunch, you see a mix of everyday people—residents, small groups, and regulars.

There are tons of restaurants here, from casual ramen shops to traditional izakayas.

It’s a great place for both domestic travelers and international visitors who want to explore a more “real” side of Tokyo.

Also, compared to more famous tourist areas, there are fewer foreign tourists here. So it’s less crowded, more relaxed, and honestly… a bit more enjoyable.

If you like food experiences that go beyond just eating—something visual, cultural, and interactive—this place is definitely worth a visit.

Especially if you’re interested in traditional Japanese cooking styles like robatayaki.